Is Gravensteen Castle Worth The Hype?

In Ghent, a city full of students and history, there’s a medieval castle that catches everyone’s eye. As soon as you enter, you’ll be transported back to the 12th Century. Welcome to Gravensteen Castle, also known as the “Castle of the Counts”.

I’m Belgian and live 45 minutes from Ghent, and every time I visit the city, I love seeing Gravensteen Castle stand proudly at the heart of the city (especially as seen from the Belfry or from the St Michaels Bridge).

I might be a bit biased because I love castles, but if there’s one place you shouldn’t miss during your visit to Ghent, it’s the Castle of the Counts! But be aware that it’s a tourist hotspot so make sure to book your tickets in advance or you’ll risk having to wait a couple of hours.

A Bit of History

Gravensteen Castle, standing tall in Ghent since 1180, was the brainchild of Count Philip of Alsace. Inspired by crusader castles, he built it as a symbol of power, combining the grandeur of a residence with the strength of a fortress.

Yet, The Castle of the Counts, Ghent also has a darker past; it was a place of swift and often brutal justice, housing torture chambers that recount the grim realities of medieval judicial practices.

Over the centuries, Gravensteen has been a silent witness to the changing tides of history, enduring sieges, political turmoil, and the evolving functions of its space—from a noble residence to a court and a prison.

By the 18th century, it transformed into a cotton factory, marking a stark departure from its noble origins.

Facing potential demolition in the 19th century, Gravensteen was saved by a revival of interest in medieval heritage, leading to a comprehensive restoration. Though the restoration faced criticism for its romanticized approach, it allowed Ghent’s Castle to reclaim its glory, not as a fortress or industrial hub but as a monument to the rich history of the city.

What Will You See?

When we arrived at Castle Gravensteen, the first thing that struck us was the impressive gate leading us straight to the ticket counter.

We were visiting during the Christmas Holidays and the castle was crowded, so make sure to book your tickets in advance or you’ll risk having to wait a couple of hours before you’re allowed to enter.

After paying for our tickets, we had a little adventure finding where to pick up the audio guide. Just so you know, it’s in the museum shop.

Armed with our audio guides, we started our tour at the inner courtyard. Then, back up the stairs we had walked twice already to reach the shop, where we continued our exploration inside the castle.

Climbing further, we listened to stories from Belgian comedian Wouter Deprez through the audio guide, which made the history come alive in a way I didn’t expect. It’s the best audioguide you’ll ever hear!

The first big room we stumbled upon was the weapon room. Yes, it’s exactly what you’d think a weapon room would look like, but we still loved seeing the swords and crossbows!

Climbing even higher, we reached the top of the keep. I love a good view, so this was definitely my favourite part of the visit. You have a breathtaking view over the city, including the famous three towers.

Back inside, we explored the Count’s Room and the much smaller Countess’ Room next door. We learned that they were forced to marry at age 12 and 13 and that their marriage wasn’t the happiest (surprise, surprise).

It was then time to walk along the Ramparts, with its 24 towers. One peculiar highlight was the Count’s toilet, an oddity that oddly enough, let people gauge his diet from afar. A bit too much information, if you ask me, but it’s definitely a unique piece of history.

Finally, we ventured into the dungeons. We didn’t spend too much time down here as we had 2 small (and sensitive) kids with us – but I would’ve loved to have taken a better look at the medieval torture equipment; after all, it’s one of the things the Gravensteen Castle is most famous for. 

Planning Your Visit to Gravensteen Castle 

I’m a sucker for castles, so I can’t recommend a visit to the Castle enough, even if you have just one day in Ghent. Here are some practical details to make things easier for you. 

Visiting with kids

There’s no reason not to bring your kids to Gravensteen Castle. After all, castles are usually a big hit with little ones.

Kids aged 6 and above will enjoy the audio guide by Wouter Deprez. The humour and fun anecdotes make it fun for kids too.

Younger children aren’t left out either; they can get a “Little Guide”. This booklet (available in Dutch, French, English, Spanish and German) turns their visit into a playful quest to find the castle’s jester.

Each double page of the guide provides a hint; on the left, there’s a picture of something in the room, prompting a mini scavenger hunt. On the right, there’s text, which seems to aim for a poetic touch.

However, I found it somewhat distracting and occasionally odd. All in all, our neurodivergent family wasn’t the biggest fan of this booklet. 

💡 Good to know: Be careful on the castle’s steep stairs and ramparts with little ones!  

Beyond Gravensteen Castle 

 The Castle of the Counts is located in the charming Patershol neighbourhood (one of my highlights!). It’s right across the Great Butcher’s Hall and the tourist information point.  

Ghent is small and easily walkable. Other major attractions such as St Bavo’s Cathedral, The Belfry and Korenlei & Graanlei are close by.  

If you’re feeling hungry, grab something to eat in the Patershol area, it’s full of cosy restaurants serving all types of cuisines.

If you’d rather eat sandwiches you brought along (like we did) but it’s raining (like it was for us), hop into the Huis van Alijn Museum café and eat them there while enjoying a warm drink (make sure to ask for permission first, of course!).  

Tips Before You Go 

• Gravensteen is inaccessible for wheelchair users due to its historical structure and layout. 
• The ramparts have high walls and a narrow path (about 2m wide) – extra caution is needed with active little ones, especially toddlers. Also, be mindful of the steep stairs throughout the castle. 
• Book your tickets in advance, especially during peak seasons like Christmas market time. Tickets can sell out, with waiting times that may go up to 3 hours. 
• A mural by Spanish artist Taquen inspired by Jan Van Eyck’s ‘Portrait of a Man in a Red Turban,’ can only be seen from one of the castle’s towers. It’s worth climbing the stairs for a glimpse, though finding it can be a bit of a challenge (but in my defence, I was trying to keep up with a lively 2-year-old!)
• Keep in mind that medieval floors are uneven and there are plenty of cobblestones and steep stairs, so wear comfortable, sturdy shoes.
• There are no restrooms inside the castle, only in the castle’s café at the entrance. 
• To get a good photograph of the entire castle, either shoot from the Hoofdbrug/Rekelingestraat or join a boat tour (the very first picture in this article is taken from said boat tour).

So, is Gravensteen Castle Worth Visiting?

The castle’s rich history, seen in the grand rooms and the grim dungeons, gives you a real sense of the past. And the quirky bits, like the Count’s unique toilet and the stories told on the audio guide, add a light-hearted touch to the history lessons.

So, in my opinion, Gravensteen is not just worth visiting—it’s a highlight of Ghent that you shouldn’t miss.

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